Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Cody Waterfall Ice Festival 2008

Ice-climbers and friends-

As many know this season marks the 10th Annual “Waterfall Ice” Festival, a four day event held during President’s Day weekend February 15-18, 2008 in CODY, WYOMING.

Our event sponsors and vendors have expanded to an astonishing selection of the best name brands in the industry and this season we are proud to announce that MONSTER energy will present the annual event in 2008.

To register, go to All the information you need is there. The Valley looks good this year, and climbs that haven't been in since the first ascent are now here!

We offer FREE on-ice tool seminars, athletes from Mammut, Petzl, Grivel, Cloudveil, Sterling Ropes, LaSportiva, Mountain Hardwear and more will demonstrate and assist you during your ice climbing experience.

New for 2008 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides will offer professional guided courses for minimal fees pending your climbing ability. The website currently has links with all information on-line and for more information call 307.250.0763.

Nightly entertainment will be action packed with the climbers “Pot Luck” slide show Friday evening and round #1 of the 8th annual “Tough Axe” pull-up contest. Saturday night MAMMUT will present the “Tough Axe” awards and the final round of the pull-up contest. We will then have a raffle and silent auction, then key note speaker and presentation by Stephen Koch with closing by Cody’s local band Like a Light Switch. Sunday evening we will BBQ and party @ CORE Mountain sports and climbing gym for another yet slide show.

The 2008 on-line pre-registration fee is $35.00, nightly dinners are available for minimal prices and don’t forget your complimentary beverages all weekend from New Belgium Brewing Company. Register by February 01 and get your 2008 FREE SWAG bag.

Climb Safe,

Johnny Gnar Gnar

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Ouray Ice Fest 2008

So my buddies just got sponsored by an energy drink, and they had to go to Ouray to represent their product. I was getting ready and making plans to head to either Silverton for the massive snow fall or to Utah, to see my family, since I haven't in almost a year. Travis came bursting in the door while I was on the phone with Ronnie, arranging couch space in Utah. He told me I was going with them to Ouray! The pictures below are some from the trip.

Going through Wind River Canyon, looking at ice.

Somewhere between Shoshone, WY and Casper.

Light traffic in Denver

Fourteen hours of driving, so far, and Fairplay Pass is CLOSED!

Monarch Pass, day two. Should have brought skis, methinks.

Welcome to the Ice Park. Finally!


Don scoping said lines.

Sue Nott's memorial.

Travis on a mixed line

Travis on ice.

Don at the belay.

Common occurance. Big Smiles.

Ice is good.

Travis and I at the belay station.

Random guy doing a mike'd demo.

Good times were had by all. My brain is still a big fuzzy as to what really went on, at various times through the week. There was the party at the Community Center, then the Outlaw Bar, where there were rumors of stripping, then to a house party above Ouray Mountain Sports, then a dance, then more booze, then me trying to figure out how to get comfy on the floor of the motel. What happens in Ouray, stays in Ouray!

Three new routes on the North Fork

So I have been living more or less a dream life this winter. I quit my job at Sierra Trading Post and have been living wherever I want, and basically just screwing around. I started hiking around the North Fork of the Shoshone during the time I have spent back home in Cody, and have found some worthy stuff. Travis Hannon and I have been hitting it pretty hard, trying to get it all done.

Purge The System: WI3

This fine route is located past Big Game Campground. If you drive to Clearwater, and turn around, drive back to the first bridge. The ice will be obvious. Park at the bridge, and the ice is right across the river.

Myself at the bottom of Purge the System.

Travis leading the first pitch of Purge

Following the first pitch of Purge

Myself and Travis at the top of Purge The System, First Ascent

On rappel from the first pitch of Purge The System

Purge The System from the road.

Clive and the Commanche: W/I4 ????
This fine climb is located in a secret canyon somewhere between Cody and Yellowstone National Park. This is the obvious gem of the drainage, and is definitely worth the fourty five minute hike. It involves climbing a tree, gaining a horrible-ly outward sloping ledge, running it out for fifteen feet to ice, then climbing about sixty five feet of W/I3+4. It is the most amazing climb I have ever had the privelidge of getting my ass kicked on.

Travis leading the tree pitch

What now?

On top of the tree, not looking forward to the ledge.

Travis leading the ice

Travis at the bottom. The picture doesn't show nearly how tall and involved this climb is, for being a one pitcher

There is one other climb that has been done up this same drainage, I just don't have pictures for it yet. It is an easy WI2 that I soloed while checking out another fork of the main drainage. Lots of pretty cool short rollers, pretty long, involving everything from technical ice to snow, to tree climbing. I called it Wooie and the Woozels, and rated it WI2